Why Albania in 2026 Is Worth the Trip, and Where It Has Changed
Albania is no longer a secret, but it is still good value, and that combination will not last. Government figures put arrivals in 2023 at around 10 million, several times the country's population, and the numbers have kept climbing since. The infrastructure has caught up in places: new guesthouses and small hotels on the Riviera, better roads in the mountains, a growing hostel scene in Tirana, and ferries from Corfu and Brindisi that make the country simple to reach from Greece and Italy. The trade-off is plain. Ksamil in August is crowded and priced accordingly, so the cheap, empty Albania of older guidebooks now exists mostly in the north and in the shoulder months.
The history explains much of the character. From 1944 to 1991 Albania lived under one of the most isolationist communist regimes in Europe. Enver Hoxha kept the country closed to nearly all foreign visitors and had concrete bunkers built across the landscape, commonly estimated at around 170,000. Many are still standing in fields, on beaches and beside roads, and some have been turned into galleries, storage or rooms to rent. Tourism arrived late, and it shows in a good way: hospitality here rests on older habits of welcoming guests than on a service industry. It is also less polished than in Italy or Croatia. Expect a coffee that takes a long time and a timetable that is a suggestion.
One cliché needs correcting. Albania is often sold as "the new Greece, but cheaper". It is not. The Riviera has Greek-quality water, but the food, the roads and the pace are its own. Arrive expecting a different country and you will enjoy it more. Come for the mountains, the Ottoman stone towns and a plate of grilled fish by the sea, not for a discount version of somewhere else.
10-Day Albania Itinerary 2026
- Days 1–2: Tirana. Spend a morning in Blloku for coffee, see the mosaic on the National History Museum, take the Dajti cable car for the view, and go out along Rruga Myslym Shyri in the evening.
- Day 3: Drive to Shkodër (about 2 hours). Walk up to Rozafa Castle, then paddle on Lake Shkodër if the weather allows. Sleep in Shkodër.
- Day 4: Take the Lake Koman ferry to Fierza (about 2.5 hours through a steep, fjord-like gorge). It is the best journey in the country, so book ahead in summer. Continue to Valbona.
- Day 5: Hike from Valbona to Theth (6–8 hours, crossing the pass at about 1,800 metres). Start early, carry water and use a local guide if you are unsure of the route or the weather. Sleep in Theth.
- Day 6: Rest in Theth. Walk to the Blue Eye waterfall (not the better-known Blue Eye in the south) and eat at a family guesthouse. Your legs will want the day off.
- Day 7: Drive south to Berat. This is a long day on mountain and main roads, so allow most of it. Walk the Castle Quarter, look at the Ottoman houses stacked up the hillside, and try a local wine at Çobo Winery.
- Day 8: Continue to Gjirokastër (roughly 2 to 2.5 hours from Berat). See the Ottoman castle and the stone town, birthplace of Enver Hoxha and the writer Ismail Kadare. Note the contrast: the town is lovely and its most famous son is not.
- Days 9–10: Albanian Riviera. Base yourself in Sarandë, visit the Ksamil beaches early in the day and the UNESCO-listed Butrint ruins, then finish in Himara for quieter swimming.
Albania Budget Guide
- All figures are estimates as of October 2026 and move with the season. Check current rates before booking.
- Tirana hostel dorm: $11–20 (€10–€18; ≈ £8.69–16) a night. Boutique hotel: $45–78 (€40–€70; ≈ £35–60).
- Riviera guesthouse with a sea view: $28–62 (€25–€55; ≈ £20–50) a night, higher in July and August.
- A main course at a local restaurant: $4.50–9 (€4–€8; ≈ £3.56–7.11). Cheap and filling.
- Fresh seafood on the Riviera: $11–20 (€10–€18; ≈ £8.69–16) for a main. Ask the price of fish by weight before it is grilled.
- Raki, the local grape spirit: $1.10–2.25 (€1–€2; ≈ £0.87–1.78) a shot. Accept one with a host and leave it at that.
- Furgon (shared minibus, the main way between towns): $2.25–6 (€2–€5; ≈ £1.78–4.74) a journey. Reliable on the main routes, with no fixed timetable: they leave when full.
- Total, budget traveller: about $45–$65 (≈ €40–60 / £35–50) a day. Mid-range: about $90–$130 (≈ €80–115 / £70–100) a day.
Safety & Cultural Notes
- Albania is generally safe for visitors. Petty theft exists, as anywhere, and serious crime against tourists is uncommon. Read the current FCDO, US State Department and DFAT advice before you travel, as it changes.
- The US State Department has rated Albania Level 1, "Exercise Normal Precautions", but check the live advisory for the current level.
- Besa is a traditional code of honour and keeping one's word, and it shapes how hosts treat guests. Take it as an invitation to be a good guest: accept the coffee, thank the cook, do not rush off.
- Currency: Albanian lek (ALL). Carry cash, because many small places do not take cards. ATMs in cities are reliable.
- Driving: mountain roads are dramatic and demand attention, with sharp bends, livestock and uneven surfaces. Go slowly and avoid driving after dark. Coastal roads have improved.