Teahouse trekking
Annapurna Base Camp, Poon Hill, Langtang and Everest Base Camp all run on a bed-and-meal teahouse system, so you carry only a day pack if you hire a porter.
Nepal — Is It the Right Destination for You?
Prayer flags and the Annapurna range from Poon Hill
Best months: Mar–May & Oct–Nov
Photo: Sylwia Bartyzel on Unsplash
Photo: Jochen van Wylick on Unsplash
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Overview
Nepal at a Glance: What It Is Really Like
Nepal is the cheapest way to stand under a mountain that is taller than anything in Europe, and the mountains are only half the reason to go. Kathmandu’s old squares and stupas, Pokhara’s lake with the Annapurna range floating above it, and the teahouse trails that link villages at 2,000 to 4,000 metres make up a country where the best days are usually spent walking. A three-week trip costs less than a week in Switzerland, and a plate of dal bhat with unlimited refills is still the best-value meal in Asia.
The word ‘cheap’ needs a footnote, though. Nepal is cheap at sea level and gets steadily dearer as the trail climbs, because everything above the road is carried by porter, mule or aircraft: a bottle of water at Everest Base Camp costs several times its price in Kathmandu. The country is also unforgiving about planning. Altitude sickness is a real risk above about 3,000 metres and does not care how fit you are, flights to Lukla and Jomsom are cancelled for weather as a matter of routine, and the monsoon from June to September turns trails to mud and views to cloud. Go in October–November or March–May, add two spare days to any trek that depends on a small plane, book a licensed guide through a registered company, and make sure your insurance covers helicopter evacuation at the altitude you plan to reach. Kathmandu itself is dusty, loud and congested, and takes a day or two to get used to.
Three highlights worth the trip
The Kathmandu Valley
Boudhanath, Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, Patan and Bhaktapur sit within a few kilometres of each other; hire a local guide for at least one.
Pokhara and Chitwan
Boat on Phewa Lake with the Annapurna range behind it, then drop to the Terai for rhinos, deer and jungle walks in Chitwan National Park.
Best time
Best Time to Visit Nepal: A 12-Month View
Best months for most visitors: Mar–May & Oct–Nov. Good weather, thinner crowds and fairer prices.
- JanOff (Off-peak)
- FebOff (Off-peak)
- MarSweet (Sweet spot)
- AprSweet (Sweet spot)
- MaySweet (Sweet spot)
- JunOff (Off-peak)
- JulOff (Off-peak)
- AugOff (Off-peak)
- SepOff (Off-peak)
- OctPeak (Peak season)
- NovSweet (Sweet spot)
- DecOff (Off-peak)
- Sweet = best balance of weather, crowds and price
- Peak = busiest and dearest (or hottest)
- Off = quiet; check weather and closures
March to May is the other good window: rhododendrons bloom between 2,000 and 3,500 metres in March and April, days are warm and the mountains are generally visible in the morning.
October and November are the peak: clear skies after the monsoon, stable weather, Dashain and Tihar festivals, and the busiest trails.
June to September is the monsoon: heavy rain, leeches, landslides and cloud over the peaks, though prices fall and the Kathmandu Valley is lush and green.
Booking window: reserve flights and stays 2–3 months ahead for Mar–May & Oct–Nov, and 4–6 months ahead for peak season (Oct).
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Weather
Weather and Seasonal Conditions in Nepal
Right now in Nepal
Current temperature loads here when your browser can reach Open-Meteo.
Weather data: Open-Meteo Historical & Live API. A single reading for the main town or area, not the whole destination.
Typical daytime highs
Peak season about 25°C / 77°F; shoulder season about 20°C / 68°F.
Rain: Heavy monsoon Jun–Sep; dry Oct–May.
Regional breakdown
Dry season (Oct–Nov, Mar–May)
Kathmandu reaches about 25 to 30°C / 77 to 86°F by day and 8 to 16°C / 46 to 61°F at night. Above 4,000 metres, nights fall below freezing, even in the best months.
Monsoon (Jun–Sep)
Heavy rain most days, highs of 28 to 30°C / 82 to 86°F in Kathmandu, leeches on the trails and cloud over the peaks. Landslides can close roads and cancel flights.
What each season feels like
Rooms in Kathmandu, Pokhara and on the Annapurna and Everest routes fill up, so book flights and guides two to three months ahead. Daytime highs in Kathmandu are around 25°C / 77°F.
Lowland haze and dust (and smoke from crop burning in April) can flatten the views, and Kathmandu highs reach 30°C / 86°F by May.
December to February is cold at altitude, with night temperatures well below freezing above 3,500 metres, but low-level treks and the Kathmandu Valley are clear and quiet.
Weather data: Open-Meteo Historical & Live API (live reading). Typical highs and season notes are our own summaries. How we verify →
Safety
Is Nepal Safe? The Five-Government Check
Last updated: government levels come from our editor-verified table (October 2026). When the live UK FCDO check succeeds, its exact UTC time appears in the panel below. The banner takes the most cautious of the five agencies, so a live UK warning always outranks a green entry in our table and any part-country warning shows as red. We never show a level we haven’t checked. How we verify →
🏛️ Official Government Warnings
Government levels: editor-verified table, October 2026 How we verify →
Five official agencies, one view. Ratings change, so each pill opens the agency’s own page for today’s level.
- UK FCDOStandard precautions, or regional adviceCheck today’s rating →
- US State DeptLevel 1 to 4Check today’s rating →
- AU SmartravellerLevel 1 to 4Check today’s rating →
- Japan MOFAStreet-level, transit and petty-crime alertsCheck today’s rating →
- South Korea MOFABlue, Yellow, Red, Black by provinceCheck today’s rating →
Summary of what the agencies publish
Tier 3/5 · Increased caution. Normal precautions to increased caution: altitude, trekking accidents and landslides in the monsoon.
The UK FCDO, US State Department and Australian DFAT all advise extra care in Nepal, mostly for mountain and travel risks rather than crime: altitude sickness, trekking accidents, landslides in the monsoon, earthquake risk and road safety. Some also mention political demonstrations and strikes that can disrupt transport. Advice changes, so read each agency’s current Nepal page before you book.
Our plain-English summary of what the UK FCDO, US State Department, Australian Smartraveller, Japan MOFA and South Korea MOFA publish. We quote no live ratings from memory; each button above opens the agency's own page.
Editorial Opinions & Street-Smart Reality
Our opinion, not an official warning
Regional nuance: Nepal’s advice is mostly about the mountains: altitude, weather, landslides in monsoon season and trekking safety. Road conditions, flight delays and occasional political strikes or protests also affect plans, so check each agency’s page for the dates you will be there.
- Altitude sickness on treks, so climb gradually, rest when symptoms start and descend if they worsen
- Unregistered trekking guides and operators, and insurance that does not cover helicopter evacuation, so book through a registered company and read the policy
- Petty theft and overcharging in Thamel and at tourist sights, and busy, badly lit roads at night
The concerns that are real: The risks that matter are mountain ones. Altitude sickness can affect anyone above about 3,000 metres, storms and snow can close passes quickly, and mountain roads and small aircraft have mixed safety records. Choose a registered operator, avoid trekking alone on remote routes, and know the early signs of altitude illness. In towns, expect petty theft, overcharging and aggressive touts rather than violence.
What headlines overstate: Headlines about avalanches, flight crashes or political unrest are real, but they describe particular places and days. Check the latest news and your government’s advice, keep a buffer in the itinerary, and be flexible: a strike or storm usually costs you a day, not the trip.
Written by our editors from general travel knowledge and kept apart from the agencies above. How we verify →
Costs
Daily Costs in Nepal: Three Ways to Travel
Backpacker
$30 (≈ €25 / £25) per person per day
$210 (≈ €190 / £165)7 days, solo
$373 (≈ €330 / £290)7 days, couple (total for two, shared room)
What it covers: Basic guesthouse or teahouse room, dal bhat and momos, local buses and shared jeeps, and entry fees to a few temples. On a trek, food and lodging are about $20 to $35 (≈ €18–30 / £16–30) a day below 3,500 metres, rising higher up.
Where a day's money goes (solo)
- Accommodation$14 (≈ €13 / £11)
- Food$9 (≈ €8.04 / £7.09)
- Transit$5 (≈ €4.46 / £3.94)
- Activities$3 (≈ €2.68 / £2.36)
Mid-Range (default)
$70 (≈ €60 / £55) per person per day
$490 (≈ €440 / £390)7 days, solo
$870 (≈ €780 / £690)7 days, couple (total for two, shared room)
What it covers: Private room with bathroom in Kathmandu or Pokhara, restaurant meals, taxis and the odd tourist bus, a guide for a day or two and entry fees. A guided teahouse trek with a porter costs roughly $50 to $90 (≈ €45–80 / £40–70) per person per day.
Where a day's money goes (solo)
- Accommodation$32 (≈ €30 / £25)
- Food$21 (≈ €19 / £17)
- Transit$11 (≈ €9.82 / £8.66)
- Activities$7 (≈ €6.25 / £5.51)
Boutique
$150 (≈ €135 / £120) per person per day
$1,050 (≈ €940 / £830)7 days, solo
$1,864 (≈ €1,660 / £1,470)7 days, couple (total for two, shared room)
What it covers: Heritage hotel or lodge in Kathmandu, Pokhara or Chitwan, private drivers, domestic flights, a private trekking guide and porter-guide team, or a helicopter transfer for the Everest region.
Where a day's money goes (solo)
- Accommodation$68 (≈ €60 / £55)
- Food$45 (≈ €40 / £35)
- Transit$23 (≈ €20 / £18)
- Activities$15 (≈ €13 / £12)
Cost source: Audited Local Lodging Taxes, Rail Tariffs & Dining Averages (our own estimates, flights excluded). How we verify →
Source: Should I Go's own estimates, October 2026, in USD per person excluding international flights; euro figures are rough conversions. A couple shares a room, so accommodation drops 25% per person. Prices move, so treat these as a planning range, not a quote.
Trip Budget Calculator
Estimated total: $0 (≈ €0 / £0)
Estimate in USD per trip, excluding international flights. Two or more travellers share rooms, so accommodation drops 25% per person. Budget and luxury tiers are scaled from the mid-range figure.
Cost source: Audited Local Lodging Taxes, Rail Tariffs & Dining Averages (our own estimates, flights excluded). How we verify →
Where to base yourself
Four Regions and Cities in Nepal
Kathmandu Valley
Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, Patan and Bhaktapur; hire a guide and allow a day for each pair.
Pokhara and Annapurna
Lake town base plus treks such as Poon Hill (4 to 5 days) or Annapurna Base Camp (7 to 10 days).
Everest region (Khumbu)
Lukla flight, Namche Bazaar and Everest Base Camp: a 12 to 14 day commitment with acclimatisation days.
Chitwan and Lumbini
Jungle safaris and the Buddha’s birthplace; a warm, low-altitude break from the mountains.
Itineraries
Three Itineraries for Nepal
Kathmandu, Pokhara and a short trek
- Days 1–2: Kathmandu: Boudhanath, Swayambhunath and Pashupatinath, plus permits and gear in Thamel.
- Day 3: Patan or Bhaktapur, then a tourist bus or flight to Pokhara.
- Days 4–8: the Ghorepani Poon Hill trek (4 to 5 days) or a shorter Mardi Himal loop.
- Days 9–10: Pokhara lake days, then fly or bus back to Kathmandu.
Getting between stops: Tourist buses from Kathmandu to Pokhara take 6 to 8 hours for roughly $8 to $15 (≈ €7.14–13 / £6.30–12) (approximate); flights take about 25 minutes. Book guides and permits through a registered agency.
Annapurna Base Camp
- Days 1–2: Kathmandu orientation and permits.
- Day 3: travel to Pokhara.
- Days 4–11: the ABC trek via Ghandruk, Chhomrong and Machapuchare Base Camp, up to about 4,130 metres.
- Days 12–14: hot springs at Jhinu Danda, return to Pokhara and Kathmandu.
Getting between stops: Trailheads are a 1.5 to 3 hour drive from Pokhara by taxi or jeep. Sleep no more than about 500 metres higher each night above 3,000 metres and keep a spare day in hand.
Everest Base Camp
- Days 1–2: Kathmandu preparation.
- Days 3–13: fly to Lukla (about 2,860 metres), then Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche and Gorak Shep to Base Camp (5,364 metres) and Kala Patthar.
- Days 14–16: descend to Lukla and fly back to Kathmandu.
- Days 17–18: buffer for weather delays and a final day in the city.
Getting between stops: Flights to Lukla are weather-dependent, and in busy seasons many depart from Ramechhap (about 3 to 4 hours by road) rather than Kathmandu. Allow at least two spare days and carry insurance that covers helicopter evacuation.
Routes and timetables change. Confirm transit times with the operator before you book.
Do and stay
Things to Do and Where to Stay in Nepal
Top things to do
- Annapurna and Everest region teahouse treks
- Kathmandu Valley: Boudhanath, Swayambhunath, Patan and Bhaktapur
- Pokhara lake and the Phewa-to-Sarangkot sunrise
- Chitwan National Park for rhinos and jungle walks
- Dal bhat, momos and Newari food
Insider tips
- Hire a licensed guide through a registered agency, and confirm current permit rules (TIMS, national park and local entry fees) before you fly
- Climb slowly above 3,000 metres: sleep no more than about 300 to 500 metres higher each night and take a rest day every 1,000 metres
- Carry cash in rupees for the trail; ATMs thin out quickly beyond the main towns and trekking villages
- Build two spare days around flights to Lukla or Jomsom, since weather cancellations are routine
- Drink only bottled, boiled or treated water, and bring your own purification tablets or filter for the trail
Neighbourhoods to choose from
Thamel, Kathmandu
Best for: Trek preparation and first-timers
Pros: Gear shops, trekking agencies, restaurants and money changers within a few streets, and a wide range of rooms from $10 to $120 (≈ €8.93–105 / £7.87–95). The easiest place to arrange permits and guides.
Watch for: Loud, dusty and aimed at tourists, with touts and heavy traffic at the edges. Choose a hotel off the main drag or with a courtyard garden.
Boudha, Kathmandu
Best for: Atmosphere and quiet mornings
Pros: A Tibetan Buddhist neighbourhood around the great stupa: monks, prayer flags, monasteries and rooftop cafés. Calm at dawn and dusk when pilgrims circle the stupa.
Watch for: About 7 km / 4.3 mi from Thamel, with slow traffic into the centre. Fewer places for evening dining or trek shopping.
Lakeside, Pokhara
Best for: Relaxing before or after a trek
Pros: Boating on Phewa Lake, cafés, bakeries, paragliding and views of the Annapurna range on clear mornings. Closest base for Poon Hill, Annapurna Base Camp and Mardi Himal treks.
Watch for: Heavily commercial strip with fewer authentic restaurants. Pokhara is among the wettest places in Nepal, so cloud often covers the mountains outside the dry season.
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Trade-offs
Advantages and Honest Disadvantages of Nepal
Advantages
- One of the cheapest countries in the world for a long trip, with lodging and food costing a few dollars at lower altitudes.
- Teahouse trails mean you can trek for weeks without a tent or heavy pack.
- Living Buddhist and Hindu culture, from Boudhanath’s circling pilgrims to Newari festivals in the old squares.
- Warm, hospitable people and a well-developed trekking industry with plenty of operators.
Honest disadvantages
- Altitude sickness, weather and rockfall are real risks, and the consequences grow with height.
- Domestic flights are often delayed or cancelled, which makes tight schedules hard.
- Kathmandu is congested and polluted, particularly in spring, and the monsoon (Jun–Sep) hides the mountains.
- Rules on permits and guides change, and some operators cut corners on safety and porter welfare.
Final verdict
Final Verdict: Is Nepal the Right Destination for You?
Who Will Love Nepal
- Trekkers and mountain walkersFrom a four-day hill loop to a three-week high-altitude route, with a bed and a meal every night.
- Culture and temple enthusiastsThe Kathmandu Valley’s squares and stupas are still in daily use.
- Long-stay, budget travellersWeeks of travel for the price of a few days in many countries.
Who Should Consider Somewhere Else
- Beach and resort seekersNepal is landlocked and its lowlands are hot and humid. Thailand has reliable sea and sand. Try Thailand instead →
- Travellers with only a weekFlights and altitude eat time; the Dolomites are far quicker to reach from Europe. Try The Dolomites instead →
- Comfort-first holidaymakersHeated rooms and smooth transport are the exception here. The Swiss Alps offer alpine scenery with comfort. Try Swiss Alps instead →
Editorial opinion from Should I Go, written from general travel knowledge and reviewed periodically. Verify prices, entry rules and advisories before you book.
Know Before You Go
- Airport to city centreTribhuvan International Airport (KTM) is about 6 km / 3.7 mi from Thamel. A prepaid taxi from the airport counter costs roughly $5–8 (NPR 800 to 1,200; ≈ €4.46–7.14 / £3.94–6.30, approximate) and takes 20 to 40 minutes depending on traffic; many hotels will send a car for a similar fare.
- Visa & entry rulesMost nationalities get a tourist visa on arrival or can pre-register online: roughly $30 (≈ €25 / £25) for 15 days, $50 (≈ €45 / £40) for 30 days and $125 (≈ €110 / £100) for 90 days (approximate; check the Department of Immigration page for current fees and rules before you fly).
- Cash, cards & ATMsTrekking needs permits that change often. Expect a conservation-area or national park fee (roughly $20, NPR 3,000; ≈ €18 / £16 for Annapurna and for Sagarmatha National Park) plus a local-government permit in the Everest region, and check whether a guide is now compulsory for your route. Agencies in Kathmandu and Pokhara handle the paperwork.
- Tap water & healthNepal is a cash country. ATMs in Kathmandu and Pokhara usually cap withdrawals at $135–265 (NPR 20,000 to 40,000; ≈ €120–240 / £105–210), depending on the bank, and add a fee of about $3.35–4.65 (NPR 500 to 700; ≈ €2.99–4.15 / £2.64–3.66); carry all the rupees you need for the trail and keep small notes for porters and guides.
- Tipping customTap water is not safe to drink. Use bottled, boiled or treated water, and avoid ice and salads away from reputable restaurants. Tipping is customary on treks: roughly 10% to 15% of the fee for guides and porters, shared among the team.
- #1 local scam to watch forTake altitude sickness, rockfall and sudden storms seriously, and keep your insurance policy number to hand. Make sure it covers trekking to your maximum altitude and helicopter evacuation, and be wary of any operator who pushes you to ‘evacuate’ without a doctor’s assessment.
Typical costs and rules change; confirm with official sources before you travel.
Getting From the Airport Into Town
- Route: Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) to Thamel by prepaid airport taxi or hotel pickup. There is no metro or reliable airport bus. Ride-hailing apps such as Pathao and inDrive work in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
- Time: About 20 to 40 minutes by taxi, longer in the afternoon traffic.
- Fare: About $5–8 (NPR 800 to 1,200; ≈ €4.46–7.14 / £3.94–6.30) by prepaid taxi, approximate; ride-hailing apps are usually cheaper.
Nepal: Your Questions Answered
When is the best time to visit Nepal?
October and November give the clearest skies and are the most popular trekking months. March to May is the second-best window, with blooming rhododendrons and warmer days but hazier views. June to September is the monsoon, and December to February is cold above 3,500 metres. Avoid the monsoon for classic Himalayan treks.
Do I need a guide or permits to trek in Nepal?
Yes, in most places you need permits, and the rules are tightening. Annapurna and Everest region fees are collected by the national park or conservation area and local governments. The Nepal Tourism Board lists many routes (among them Everest Base Camp, the Annapurna Circuit, Poon Hill and Mardi Himal) where a licensed guide and an agency-issued TIMS card ($13, NPR 2,000; ≈ €12 / £10) have been required since 31 March 2023, though enforcement on the ground varies. Rules change, so ask a registered agency and check Nepal Tourism Board pages before you travel.
How many days do you need in Nepal?
Ten days covers Kathmandu, Pokhara and a short trek such as Poon Hill or Mardi Himal. Two to three weeks lets you do Annapurna Base Camp, Langtang or Everest Base Camp with acclimatisation days and a buffer for flight delays. The Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp with Gokyo are three-week commitments.
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